Please Dress Up!

Not much to update you on today. Went to the Carnaval parade on Sunday, a parade which has been going on for over 500 years. I couldn't seem to get a good picture of any part of the parade even though I saw a great looking dragon and a couple of beautiful giant puppets. I do, however, have a cool triptych of sorts to show you. We were on our way to the parade when we came upon this great painting urging people to "PLEASE dress up." As you've no doubt heard, many of Paris' tourists are less than fashionable, and it really hurts the eyes of the locals to see so many sweatshirts, sweatsuits, and tennis shoes, not to mention, fanny packs. Ha! I love this painting, and my friend Allen suggested that I get the stoplight in the shot as well. He stood guard and made sure that no motorists took me out, while I stood in the middle of the narrow street to take the pix, and I actually got shots with green, yellow, and red lights. Very cool. Enjoy!

A fun Sunday followed by school, school, and more school

Wow...it has been a long time since I've posted anything. Although this week was filled with school this and school that, and I really had no social life at all until Friday, the week started off with a bang.

On Sunday I met my friends Quynh and Allen for lunch at the Paris Mosque. Very good food, very beautiful mosque. Afterward we walked around a bit and tried to go to an exhibit at the Jeu de Paume, but the line was ridiculous. Quynh was meeting some friends who were visiting from the US for dinner, so Allen and I decided to go to the Palais de Tokyo to see what was going on there. We were richly rewarded because the exhibits were fabulous...in a hilarious sort of way. There were four exhibits based on the HAARP scientific research program, a program that is apparently shrouded in mystery and is based in Gakona, Alaska. HAARP stands for High-frequency Active Auroral Research Program, and the program is funded by the military, adding to the air of mystery, bien sur. The works were interesting to say the least. There was one "piece" that consisted of a taped off square of floor; inside the square sat 15 metal chairs and an automatic lawnmower (like the vacuum cleaners that run themselves). The mower would stop at the tape & turn around (apparently there was wiring under the tape), but it didn't recognize the chairs, so it moved them around. Hmmh. It was sort of funny to watch, and we made some rather irreverant jokes about it, of course. Anyway, there was another piece which I'll include a picture of that we thought was hilarious. At the bottom was something (a generator? I don't know...you decide), and at the top were two umbrellas with their tips facing each other. Every ten minutes or so a loud horn would sound, and a blue electric current would run through the two tips of the umbrellas. Unfortunately, I didn't catch a picture with the blue streak of current, but you can use your imagination.

Anyway, laughter ensued, jokes were made, and we decided it was time to have a glass of wine or two in the bar that's part of the Palais. Afterward we popped down to the nearby Trocadero for the view of the Eiffel Tower. Talk about being richly rewarded...see for yourself.


Beautiful...

By the time we had dinner and headed home, it was 1:00 a.m.! So I got my social life in for the week a little early, I guess, knowing that the school week would be too busy for too much fun because...this was week two of school, and it was the first week of phonetics lab and conferences. I really did nothing all week except go to class, go to phonetics lab, rush to get to my conference while eating a sandwich on the run, spend lots of time on the metro, do some homework, and finally, take a test on Friday. Nothing social at all until dinner with Quynh on Friday, but we were both pretty exhausted, so even though there was a party starting at 11:30, we had both turned into pumpkins by then. Now, I know what you're thinking, and as I said, I'm not here to NOT do things, but don't worry...there'll be other (many other) parties to attend, so missing one is nothing to sweat over. Besides, yawning isn't my best look.

I'd have to say that the highlight of the school week was studying on Thursday while sitting in front of Notre Dame. I mean, if a girl's gotta study, she might as well have a spectacular view! It was cold but bearable in the sun, the sky was blue, the tourists (and gypsies trying to con them) were everywhere, and there I sat, studying French in front of this beautiful cathedral by the Seine. Life is good indeed.

The Graffiti Tour of Paris

Sometimes I feel like I'm on "the graffiti tour of Paris." It's everywhere, but the thing is, some of it is so good! Take, for instance, Jerome Mesnager. You already know how much I appreciate his art--well, on the way to class this week I ran across another graffiti artist whose work is worth sharing. His name is Jef Aerosol, and I found this painting behind the building where my classes are held. If you can see the picture, you'll recognize the folks in it. In case you can't, I'll tell you. Elvis Presley, Jimi Hendrix, and Marilyn Monroe...and some ants. I have no idea about the ants, but the painting was just too cool not to share.

So after a little street art, I went to my first class on Tuesday, and YAY, I really like my teacher. I am in just the right class for me, and the professeur is great. Being an education professional, it's difficult not to critique your teachers, but no problem--mine rocks. On Tuesday, the first day of class, these two girls were just chatting away, oblivious to the rest of us, totally unconcerned. I, (dork that I am) sitting in my front row seat, was annoyed by them and was thinking, "if this were MY class, I'd call them out." Not two seconds later Madame Henaut asked them if there was a question then told them to pay attention. What can I say, she's good.

Madame Henaut told us that we needed to buy two books, so I left class & headed to the bookstore. As I approached the Blvd. St. Michel, I noticed the drumming of drums & blaring of bull horns...a student protest was underway, and I was about to get caught right in the middle of it. Let me just say that every student enrolled in every university in Paris must have participated because there were mobs and gobs of people for blocks and blocks and blocks! I don't know what they were protesting, but they were a pain to get through. The police (gendarmerie) were all over the place, and I got a couple of pics that show both police and students. You won't get the full effect, but take my word for it. There were tons of 'em.

I eventually made it to the bookstore and later home and back to class on Wednesday. After class I shot home for a much needed grocery store run and a bite to eat then headed back out to meet some friends for a photography exhibit at Maison Europeenne de la Photographie. The first artist's work was not to my liking (or to the liking of any of my friends), but there were others whose work was great. If you're interested, google Minot-Gormezano and Giorgia Fiorio and see what you think. Those two were my favorites. (They're two separate artists, so google them separately.)

Afterward, my friend Allen and I decided to go to the international meetup where we met just last week. We met this group of Germans who were funny and so sweet. One works in marketing for Dole (yes, as in pineapple), and I told him I needed a job. He gave me his business card but said with the economy (and my current lack of a work permit), he couldn't say... Of course, I hope to get a work permit eventually, so who knows...it's all about connections though, and I'm making those.

It's great to meet so many people from all over the world. The Australians are so laid back and friendly. The Germans were so fun and sweet. The folks from India seem so gentle and kind. The Italians are heaven to listen to, and the Brits are a little zany. The Americans, well, you know about Americans. And the French, well, they're great one-on-one. We decided last night, us expats, that in groups, the French tend to be closed off and exclusive, but one-on-one they're really friendly, funny, and overall great. It's their country though, so in the US, Americans may very well seem closed off and exclusive to non-Americans. It makes sense, no?

Anyway, no matter where we're from, we all have at least one thing in common--we all want to stay here. One way or another, we've all got to figure it out. And with our love of Paris and the approaching Valentine's day holiday in mind, I have a lovely picture of a boulangerie window to share with you...à tout à l'heure!

The return of brrrr...and school is starting!

It is COLD here again. Two days last week of nice, low 50s, and I got spoiled. Today isn't just cold; it's rainy. And I got caught in it without an umbrella. I'm feeling--and looking--like a cold, wet rat.

Yesterday, Quynh and I went to Chinatown, and thank God she was with me because I don't know Chinese food from Vietnamese from Korean. Still don't, by the way, but I did learn about some beautiful (and Quynh says tasty) new fruits. Also learned about gelatinous green things that some say are tasty but that I passed on trying. Did, however, have a delicious meal at what is rumored to be the best Vietnamese restaurant this side of Saigon or Hanoi. It was PACKED too, and we ended up sharing a table with a cute, recently married couple--he is from Canada, and she's from Romania. They met while working for the same company here in Paris. Very sweet. Anyway, they frequent this restaurant (Le Bambou, in the 13th if you get here) and said it's always busy. I had noodles with pork, other stuff, and sauce, and I had a dessert which I can't seem to figure out how to describe except that the outside was kind of like a sweet dumpling, the inside was mushed up mung beans (they could have left that out), and it was in a sweet milk with sesame seeds. It was warm and quite tasty. I'd order it again...if I could figure out how.

Then last night I went to a dinner party at Jim Hayne's atelier. He has been hosting Sunday night dinner parties for between 50 and 100ish people for 30 years. Every week. Whew! It was also packed but fun. Met mostly Americans, a few French, and one Brit. Dinner was lamb curry. Those of you that know my tastes are probably going..."oooh...did she eat it?" Yes, I did eat it, and it wasn't bad once I got past the idea of EATING lamb (Mary had a little lamb...so sad). And the curry didn't have whatever curry spice I dislike; it was more of a brown than a yellow sauce. Served alongside were taziki, lentils, stewed apples, and rice. Cinnamon raisin cake with cream cheese frosting followed, my favorite part of the meal as you might imagine. Again, it was fun, but it was so packed that it was difficult to get around and impossible to meet everyone there. But everyone that I met was super nice, and on my way out, Jim even let me get a picture with him.

Today I got my class schedule: 12:00 - 2:00 daily. I'm going to have to have a late breakfast b/c you know me--I'm used to eating lunch around that time, although my lunches have gotten later since I've been here. Classes start tomorrow, so I left the spot where I got my schedule and headed out to find the spot where my actual classes will be held. I had brought my rain hat along as it was barely sprinkling when I left home, but by the time I got where I was going, the rain had become steady, and I was well drenched. About that time Quynh and I connected, and I headed BACK up the street to meet her for lunch. Along the way, I passed another Jerome Mesnager painting, this one on rue Saint Jacques. What's funny about this one is that the red sign you see the figure leaping to grab is basically saying that this is a car's exit and not to park in front of it, and they're on doors all over Paris. I thought it was funny that the artist decided to create art around something so mundane as a "no parking" sign. And although you may be beginning to think that these paintings are literally everywhere, they are not, but because I love them, I think they jump out at me when I pass one. I'm usually the only one taking a picture, but I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

So now that I'm home and dry, I'm thinking about tonight. There's another meetup tonight that I'm supposed to go to, and as much as I want to go, it's just so tempting right now to stay inside, away from the cold, wet rain. Maybe I'll rally & go. Think I'll take my umbrella this time.

Just call me Reckless

Wednesday was a big day. Not for any one, big reason, but for several small ones.

First, snow again. BIG, beautiful flakes of snow! But only for about half an hour and nothing stuck. Nonetheless, it was beautiful.

Next, I walked into the cleaner's to drop some things off, and what did I hear over the speakers but the Connell's singing 74/75, my favorite Connell's song. Not that hearing American pop music is shocking--it's everywhere here, played over the speakers while you enjoy your lunch or do a little shopping. It's the fact that it was the Connell's...it was just kinda cool.

OH, and before this there was the monthly siren test. Apparently, and no one tells you this when you move here, every month, on the first Wednesday of the month at noon, the city of Paris tests all emergency sirens. I was having flashbacks to WWII. Movies, of course, WWII movies. My imagination was saying, "Air raid! Take cover!" and my mind was saying, "Wait...it's 2009...but what IS that?" I checked the neighbors' windows, but no one seemed panicked. I turned on the tv, but there was just an interview with someone about another scandal. So I turned to google, and what do you know, they had the scoop. And by the way, if you happen to be in San Francisco the first Tuesday of the month and start hearing sirens, no worries. They're just a day ahead of Paris with their tests.

Later I met Quynh for dinner and afterward we went to an "international" meetup. It was packed, and getting a drink was no easy task. Just like everything else that involves someone providing service, patience is called for. Eventually we were rewarded with tasty glasses of wine and it was on to people meeting. The great thing was that the hosts for this event would actually seek out new people, introduce themselves, then introduce a couple of other people to you. We met several interesting people from Australia, Italy, the UK, and who knows where else. Allen who was from Australia said something that I just loved although I'm afraid I may not remember it verbatim. It was something to the effect of, "I'm glad my life has not been limited to my dreams." Wow...powerful stuff.

Then there was the photographer from the UK...I think his name was Peter. He was hilarious. Of course, it wouldn't translate if I tried to tell you all the funny things he said, so you'll just have to take my word for it. I will, however, tell you that he's the one who gave me my new nickname...Reckless. We were sharing "how'd you get to Paris" stories, and when I had told him mine he said, "You're the first person I've ever met who sold their house, sold their car, quit their job and just moved to another country because they wanted to. You are BRAVE!" I replied with my standard, "either brave or stupid...the jury's still out," and that's when he said, "reckless...that's what you are. I'm gonna call you Reckless!" So there you have it. My first real nickname--Reckless. My friends Janet and Jake have always called me Marie, but that's my middle name, so I don't think it counts as a nickname.

It was a fun night filled with comedians, philosophers, and one Italian guy who just had to speak to keep me hanging on every word. The best sound in the world is children laughing, but coming in a really close second is the sound of an Italian man or a Frenchman speaking English...like music, I tell ya. And before you ask, he was waaay too young for me. But I can listen, can't I?

Oh-fficial

Woke up to snow on Monday! It was beautiful but didn't last. By mid-day the rain had washed most of it away, and by evening it was just a happy little memory. They say it rarely snows in Paris. So far I've seen it happen twice in three weeks. What can I say, I have good timing!

Saturday evening I met Quynh (I've been spelling her name wrong) at Galeries Lafayette to tag along as she shopped for a coat. Neither one of us thought about the fact that venturing to the giant department stores on a Saturday during soldes season might not be the best plan. And boy, was it crazy! We literally had to wait to get on escalators. Both of us being more boutique shoppers, we left. I said to her, "What were we thinking? We don't have jobs! We can come here on a Monday or a Tuesday...any day but a Saturday!" Live & learn.

Since we were close, we headed up to my neck of the woods and wandered around Montmartre a little. Once hunger hit, we found a little restaurant on rue des Abbesses and had another yummy dinner with wine. We both skipped dessert this time, and I was proud of my restraint, a trait which rarely shows itself. After more wandering in the cold, cold, COLD night, we ducked into a bar where there was a guy playing guitar & singing, and where we had...dessert. I didn't even really want it, but it seemed like the thing to do. Next time, I'm skipping it. Really, I am.


The next couple of days were pretty uneventful, so on Tuesday, Quynh and I decided to meet at Shakespeare & Co. and wander around a little. On our way to find lunch, I found something else. The cutest red coat! It was, of course, on sale, so I bought it. Now Quynh is the one shopping for a coat, and I am the one buying it. Isn't that always the case? Anyway, we had lunch at a cute little Vietnamese restaurant then wandered more, coat shopped more, and shoe shopped some while we were at it. Then Quynh revealed that she had never had a Laduree macaron, and following that, she had an epiphany. Why not do a taste test between Pierre Herme macarons and Laduree macarons. Well, why not? When it comes to macaron tasting, I'm all in. So we walked to the Laduree in Saint-Germain where she, being the scientist that she is, ordered one caramel du sel macaron and one cafe macaron. For testing purposes. I, on the other hand, ordered three caramel du sel macarons. I mean, I already know what I like, and it's Laduree caramel du sel macarons!

We dutifully put our beautiful green Laduree bags away & headed for Pierre Herme where Quynh, once again, purchased one caramel du sel macaron and one cafe macaron. And I, once again, purchased three caramel du sel macarons. I mean, if you're buying macarons (and I always buy the minis, by the way), what sense does it make to just buy one? I never claimed to be a scientist.

After much wandering and a little picture taking, we ended up in a cafe where we decided the time had come to execute the test. Quynh started with the comparison of the cafe macarons, and, well, you all know where I started. I had a taste of the cafe macarons, but only a little taste, so although I preferred the Laduree, Quynh much preferred the Pierre Herme. However, when it came to caramel du sel, we agreed that the Laduree was by far the best, most tasty, and with the best texture to boot. So it's official, or, more appropriately, oh-fficial. Laduree caramel du sel macarons...get more than one today!

More wandering, then hunger, and since we were both craving Italian food, we looked for an Italian restaurant. It was, once again, very, very cold, so after an unsuccessful search, we decided to ask the person that I think is the most knowledgable in all of Paris--the Parisian pharmacist. Two very nice pharmacists sent us to a very nice looking, not unexpensive restaurant which we decided was a little pricey for our unemployed student budgets. More walking, more teeth chattering, and we decided to ask another very knowledgable Parisian--the hotel front desk person. Score! This time we were sent to a restaurant more fitting our budgets, and dinner was yummy. Of course, on the way there, wouldn't you know that we passed another equally inviting Italian restaurant. That one is on our list to try later.

Tonight we're both going to an "international" meetup, so I'll let you know how that goes.

One more pic that I have to post here...Jerome Mesnager is a painter whose paintings appear as little surprises from time to time on Paris walls, doors, and apparently awnings. I took a picture of the first painting of his I ever saw and had it framed. It is of a magician pulling a rabbit from a hat, and as soon as I saw it, I loved it. People looked at me like I was odd when they saw me taking the picture. Recently, I walked by the wall it used to be painted on, and it had been done away with. Ha! Glad I have the picture. Anyway, walking through Les Halles on Friday afternoon, I came across another one of his paintings...this time of a figure reading a book. It's on an awning over, appropriately enough, a book shop. You may not be able to see it very well, but I hope you can...I just love it!